Anyone who loves and appreciates wine should understand the appeal of a good wine from a difficult vintage or region. We fuss over these variables, vying for idyllic conditions where our grapes are pampered like princes while vineyards in proximity to war zones are producing perfectly affable expressions of the same varietals.
One such example hails from southern Ukraine. Situated between the Black Sea and Lake Yalpug, these bodies of water act as moderators that shield vineyards from frost and extreme temperature swings. Their dual proximity generates constant air circulation and morning mists, which extend the growing season in this otherwise cold region.
I recently tasted a 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Bolgrad Winery. It is curious that such a cool region would opt for a late-ripening, thick-skinned grape that is notoriously difficult to ripen. But if the past few years have confirmed anything, the Ukrainians are a stubborn bunch, undeterred by such inconveniences as “late ripening” or “a full-scale military invasion from Russia.”
A characteristically deep ruby colour in the glass, the Ukrainian cab bursts with blackcurrants, blackberries, and red cherries on the nose. There is some pleasant oak influence as well, by way of cardamom and vanilla spices. The palate follows similarly, with generous acidity (typical of cab anywhere, especially in such a climate) and a black-fruit-dominant flavour profile awash in black plums and blackberries, though lacking some intensity. The tannins are surprisingly soft and smooth, and the wine lingers with a decent finish.
This is a perfectly good (not quite great) example of Cab Sauv from an unexpected region. Given its 2024 vintage, I found myself thinking of the winemakers and vineyard labourers working amid a war-ravaged nation. It is comforting to see them find solace in the care that goes into producing such libations; it is the simple pleasures of life that we live for, after all.